Ride any machine long enough and we guarantee you’ll be replacing bearings. They’re the most critical parts in making sure your machine rolls smoothly. Considering the conditions most ATVs and UTVS are regularly put through, whether it’s sand, snow or mud, it’s amazing they last as long as they do. Despite your best care though, eventually some contaminants will creep in and you’ll be faced with a bearing replacement job. Here’s how to take it on like a boss!
Sneak Attack
Think of the grit attacking your machine as the enemy. You can have complete terrain domination with your ATV, but the enemy is constantly probing and looking for any weakness. When it does breach your best defense, it’s out for absolute and complete destruction of your bearings and when that happens, you’ll usually notice the engine seems to be struggling a little more, or on a pre-ride inspection, you’ll find a loose wheel or suspension joint. A worn bearing or pivot is the culprit and it ain’t going to get any better on its own. In fact, continuing to run it will almost certainly ruin a lot more parts such as brakes, axles, and possibly, even the transmission. When you do find a bad suspension joint or worn wheel bearing, it’s time to get your machine into the shop, fix the problem, and get back in action.
There are three choices when it comes to finding new bearings for your repair:
- Head to the dealership and order them individually at the greatest possible cost
- Find a bearing supply house, then order individually, hopefully with all the correct part sizes, but usually at a slightly better cost than the dealership
- Call BOSS BEARING and get a kit shipped free to your door with everything you need!
Defense Department
BOSS BEARING is really the department of defense when it comes to bearing replacement. Let them know your problem and they’ve almost certainly got a kit ready to go with the new bearings, seals, and anything else required to get the job done. They can also help you with tips and tricks to make the job easier, but their specialty is keeping you and your machine rolling rather than sitting in the shop waiting for replacement parts. 
Other than the obvious size difference in bearings, there is also a difference in bearing tolerances. The bearings and seals BOSS supplies are equal to or exceed the original manufacturer’s specifications for wear and longevity, and in some cases, BOSS has developed their own replacement set that performs better than the original. Many manufacturers use a solid material such as plastic, bronze, or even rubber for pivots, especially for shocks or suspension components. In that case, BOSS has tested and developed a replacement material, such as DELRIN or UHMW, that exceeds the performance and lifespan of the original material. It’s not just about the bearing though; the seal is your front line soldier when it comes to bearing protection and you’ll want to make sure it’s ready for battle by using high quality seals every time. BOSS has you covered there also. The best thing you can do to maximize bearing life is wash your machine thoroughly after every muddy ride. When you do find a bearing that needs replacement there are a few important steps to follow, and a few tips that can make the job easier.
Replace and Rearm
More replacement bearings are ruined by improper installation than by dirt. Here are the steps to insure you get your new bearings and seals installed correctly:
1. Remove the old bearing. Usually the seal is destroyed and long gone, but the bearing may be left in pieces and they rarely come out easily. If you don’t have a bearing puller and replacement tool, try using a rod, drift, or punch to get on the back side of the remaining race (The RACE is the bearings’ little racetrack the rollers or balls run around on). Tap it first on one side, then the opposite side until it begins to slide out. WD-40, penetrating oil, or any similar solvent can be a great tool at this time. TIP: Be sure there is no snap ring holding it in!
2. Heat can be your friend. Heating the outside of the bearing carrier will cause the material to expand, often times loosening its grip on the bearing race, and a quick blow on a non-marking surface like a block of wood will allow the bearing to fall right out. Unfortunately, heating it for too long will transfer to the bearing race inside, which will also expand and lock it even tighter into the housing. To use heat you must be quick! TIP: One old trick is to run a bead of weld around the inside of a stuck bearing. As the weld cools, the bearing shrinks and it will often fall right out. Whatever you do, though, DON’T weld it to the housing!
3. Clean Thoroughly. The housing must be clean all the way up to the bearing seat, stop, or shoulder for new bearing installation. It must be seated fully! Improperly seated new bearings turn into old bearings very quickly. A little WD-40 can help here too. 
4. Install. With the new bearing lined up, start it evenly into the bore. It should slide down firmly, but evenly. DO NOT BEGIN WHACKING DIRECTLY WITH HAMMER! When the bearing reaches a point it no longer moves, cover end with a non-marking material like a block of wood and begin gently tapping into place. A dead-blow hammer works great for this. When bearing edge drops below housing rim, use a socket that sits perfectly on bearing outer race and barely fits inside housing bore. Continue tapping until it reaches seat. TIP: One trick we’ve used often is to put the new bearings in the freezer as we begin the job, then when the housing part is completely clean, we’ll apply heat around the interior surface, allowing it to expand. However, do not heat so much it begins to damage surface by burning material. While the housing is still hot, install frozen bearings which will often drop right in.
5. Seals & Grease. Most seals have a rubber surface and cannot be installed into a hot part without damage. When the part cools, apply good quality grease – waterproof and lithium work great - then install seal carefully into bore as well. Typically, the outer edge of the seal should be about flush with the outer rim of the bearing housing. TIP: Again use caution when tapping in seal. 
On a Roll
If you’ve ever shopped for bearings, you’ll quickly find there are many variations, but the most common in the powersports world are needle, ball, and taper styles. Needle bearings are often used in tight spaces such as suspension linkages and A-arm pivots, while roller bearings are used in wheel hubs, engine cases, drive shafts, etc. A tapered bearing does present a huge advantage for wheel hubs, however.
Tapered bearings are much, much better at handling large loads or side loads than a typical roller bearing. That’s why they are standard equipment on almost every trailer. Their life span can easily be more than five times longer than a needle bearing. The only drawback is you must grease them thoroughly upon installation, and you must have the correct amount of preset pressure on them so the wheel rolls smoothly with no dragging, but not so loose that it feels sloppy. Tapered bearings also require a separate seal, but they do present vastly more load carrying capability. Most manufacturers use roller bearings for manufacturing ease, but BOSS carries both styles. 
Not Only Bearings at BOSS
Besides replacement bearings, BOSS also carries other parts such as oil filters, brakes, levers and perches, chain rollers, ball joints, and just about every other common item you’ll need to replace sooner or later. One of the best features from BOSS, though, is the free shipping. Call or email in an order, and it’s on the way usually the same day. We’ve used them often and our order always showed up before we expected it.
Prepackaged replacement kits like those from BOSS certainly make a repair job easier, and if it gets us back out riding, and at a better price, we’re all over it.
www.bossbearing.com phone: 1-888-400-2677 Mon-Fri 9am-5pm EST
